Friday, October 17, 2014


It doesn't matter what material you work in,
the creative spark will find you!

Jessica Beel

With a BA in Art History (Harvard University, 1985) and a Masters in Early American Decorative Arts (Winterthur Program, University of Delaware, 1992), Jessica has expanded her self-taught craft techniques with more formal training in metalwork (Penland School of Crafts, NC, and Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, ME), papermaking (Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, ME), and stone carving (Corcoran School of Art, DC).

She holds professional memberships in: American Crafts Council, Bead Society of Washington, DC, James Renwick Alliance, Precious Metal Clay Guild - Certified Teacher, Society of North American Goldsmiths and Washington Guild of Goldsmiths.

1. What led you to designing and creating jewelry/sculptures? And 2. Are you a full time artist and how did you make your way there?


I have been a full-time artist, but recently I have been supplementing my income in order to more easily pay for my daughter's college tuition. When I worked full time as an artist, for about 15 years, I started by applying to smaller craft shows (Washington Bead Society) and then improved my application images and honed my skills until I got in to progressively larger and more recognized/selective events (Smithsonian Craft Show and Washington Craft Show), building up a clientele that often contacted me between shows for follow up purchases or commissions. I also did the ACC Baltimore wholesale show once and had a few more limited wholesale series that I sold to about 10 galleries for a few years. I focused on two fairly distinct media and styles, both of which offered a nice niche within the highly competitive jewelry shows. My woven beadwork (almost entirely jewelry
Influenza Necklace
entirely jewelry and more accessible, formally, to buyers - colorful and very wearable) and paper shrunk over wire (more distinctive and unusual and with potential to grow larger as sculpture). While it was hard to divide my time and attention between the two media at times, I found they each feed a different part of my creative impulse, so I could never decide which I prefer and I carried on in both.

3. Biggest challenge as an artist?
Reclaimed Plastic necklace
My biggest challenge (at least these days!) is juggling the time I spend on my personal/family life with the time I devote to my creative work. I find it difficult to focus adequately on either sometimes. The changing art/crafts market is also a challenge - people seem less inclined to make an impulse purchase and fewer people seem to be attending high-level art shows (at least in DC and with the intent to buy instead of just browse).  I struggle with trusting the saying that if you make what you love the rest will follow...it is so hard to leap into the void and forget about the business side of making art for a living!

4. Describe your creative process?
Leafy necklace with pearls
I work all the time, at least in my head.  I keep a notepad handy in case I need to jot down an idea, but sometimes a napkin or receipt will have to do!  I work on many projects simultaneously.  This is largely a holdover from when I did more weekend shows and needed to keep my inventory full.  But now I am used to it and like percolating many ideas simultaneously.  They often influence each other.  It's fun to see ideas evolve in parallel. Sometimes I will use a smaller jewelry piece as a maquette or small sample for a larger sculpture piece.
Chrysanthemum pendant
My home is my studio these days.  I am fortunate to have a back yard with a cement area over a half-sunk garage where I can conveniently make my paper sheets in nicer weather.  For the paper jewelry and sculpture, I generally make a series of armatures and then make a dozen or so sheets of flax paper in order to cover everything at one time.  Recently, I have been using a pour mold (instead of a dip mold) so I can make one sheet at a time more easily.  This is particularly useful when I am trying out a new form rather than making a few final pieces.

5. What inspires you?
Deconstructing HPV
I am most inspired by forms found in nature, both larger objects that we can see readily (leaves, waterflow patterns, mineral structures) and microscopic ones (viruses, cell structures).  I am particularly drawn to universal forms, like the golden spiral - I am amazed at how basic mathematical ideas explain so much of our world.

6. Tell me about the technical process you employ in your work.
Elizabethan Collar - Sea Urchin
Paper over steel:  In order to make my paper-over-steel work, I have to make the armatures as well as the paper.  I make the armatures using wire (usually steel, but often sterling or niobium for the wearable work) and sometimes (but rarely, these days) basketry reed.  For the wire armatures, I form them using as few pieces of metal as possible and cold connections, meaning that I bind the forms from very long pieces of wire instead of soldering smaller ones together.  I like the way the bound connections accentuate the form and add strength to
Radiolarian
the pieces.  However, as my work as gotten larger, I have realized that eventually I may need to weld the larger elements to accommodate increased weight and difficulty in bending higher-gauge wire. I cover the armatures with still-wet paper made from overbeaten (8 hours at a low setting in a Hollander beater), uncooked, unbleached flax fiber. This is necessary because the pulp has to be gently crushed for a long time (not chopped up) in order for it to shrink adequately as it dries.  The uncooked paper has an intrinsic stickiness that lets it adhere to itself, so no glue is needed.  As the paper shrinks, it gets quite taut and thin, but stays very strong and hard to puncture.  Once the paper has dried, I infuse it with beeswax (especially the wearable work), making it waterproof and more translucent.
Curved Crocus earrings
Beadwork: All of my beaded work is hand sewn off loom with a needle and thread.  I use primarily Japanese glass seed beads and bugle beads and black nylon thread. Sometimes I make custom findings that include armatures that I can sew onto (especially for earrings and pins).

7. How would you describe your artistic style and how has it changed over the years?
That is a hard thing to do!  I think my style for the beadwork used to be more representational and now it has gotten more abstract (but still inspired by "real" things like viruses and flowers).
Toothed Cowrie
My paperwork started out very leafy and botanical and has moved in a more mathematical direction - I now make linked necklaces that are like puzzles and the sculpture is often based on deep sea creatures or microscopic organisms that have distinctly geometrical forms. 

Fused shapes - recycled plastic
I continue to add new techniques to my work (always have, always will), including fused painted recycled plastic bags, felting, and found object collage.  And I have an ongoing obsession with wire mesh.

8. Any big plans for the future? Other shows, etc...
I have an upcoming group show and sale in Potomac with a wonderful group of artists working in a range of media. We call ourselves Artfinity and the show will be the weekend of November 22 and 23 (details are on the calendar section of my website - jbeelsdesign.com).
The View From Within
Also, I am working on a 3-person show (with Elsabe Dixon and Inga Hamilton) called Call and Response for the Episcopal School in Alexandria this April through June (details will also be on the website, as they develop).

9. If someone wants to purchase a piece from you (away from the show) what is the best way for them to contact you?
Email - jessica@jbeelsdesign.com  The images on my website are largely for information and not necessarily what I have in stock. I am always happy to send images of what I do have in stock and will work on custom pieces.



Rachel Carren

With a background in studio art, Rachel has a BA in art history and English literature and a PhD in 19th century art history, with a special emphasis on American art. She is the curator of the book Masters: Polymer Clay and has been involved with the Polymer Art Archive since its inception. Pieces of Rachel’s polymer art are in the permanent collections of many American museums.  


Winslow Homer
Leaping Fish Pin



Rachel Carren’s work is influenced by her love of textiles and her extensive art history background. Printing patterns inspired by historic painters onto fabric like swaths of polymer, Carren defines the color and ornamentation which forms the basis for her jewelry.


Bonnard inspired collection
 1. What led you to designing and creating jewelry?

Not exactly sure about the jewelry part, however, my work is influenced by textile arts and historic painters. 

2. Are you a full time artist and how did you make your way there?

Monet bangle
I am involved in the arts in several ways. I am both a maker, an art historian and now, I research and write about polymer art. Sometimes one takes precedence, sometimes the other. 


3. Biggest challenge as an artist?

Finding enough time and balance.

4. Describe your creative process?

Hokusai Circle in Square
I am a tortoise.  Mostly, my ideas grow from observation, previous work and extensive experimentation to resolve problems and find resolutions.  

5. What inspires you?

Textile art, extant historic art, geometry and the interchange between art and the cultures that create it. 

6. Tell me about the technical process you employ in your work.

I use polymer, a synthetic modeling compound, to create my work. First, I mix a custom color palette, which is used to create a blend; this blend is then sheeted like a piece of fabric. Next I apply a pattern of pigment using textile inspired techniques. I make my own silk screens and often use layers of screen printing. The printed sheet of polymer becomes the material from which I form my designs.  

7. How would you describe your artistic style and how has it changed over the years?

Classic. My surfaces tend to be complex so my compositions are based on the simplicity of basic geometry. 
8. Any big plans for the future? Other shows, etc...

I’ve recently figured out how to weave polymer into cloth.  Aside from constructing garments out of this fabric, I’m interested in incorporating it into jewelry designs.  


9. If someone wants to purchase a piece from you (away from the show) what is the best way for them to contact you?



Nella Fischer

Nella Fischer is a local silversmith who while primarily self-taught has honed her skills with workshops and classes at the Art League School of the Torpedo Factory in Alexandria, the Washington Guild of Goldsmiths (of which she is a member) and at the Touchstone Center for Crafts in Farmington, Pennsylvania.

“Most of my work is done in sterling or argentium silver and includes stones, pearls, beads or other non-metal objects.  The design may be inspired by something I have observed, from something I imagine for the non-metallic object that I plan to incorporate, or from something that I wish to communicate.”

1. What led me to designing, etc.

At first, I was struck with the ease of doing something with metal wire
or sheet to create a wearable piece of jewelry. I was also interested in making something (not just buying) that I would wear. Even though those were naïve ideas, they were doable. Next came the challenge of making things that someone would actually buy.

2. Am I a full time artist?

No, I am not a full time artist. I started working in metal after I retired from a 30+ yr. career in government administration. But I had been making beaded jewelry, sewing, and working on creative projects for the house. So I was not intimidated in taking a metal’s class to see how jewelry was made. But thankfully I don’t have to work any more hours than I want to.

3. Biggest challenge...

Designing and making pieces that show creativity as well as technical skill. Pieces that are well made, have appeal and meet client’s desires and/or needs. Pieces that are unique in some noticeable way.

4. Creative process...& 5. What inspires me...

I’m often inspired with a design by something that occurs to me when looking at a stone or a bead. Then I try to capture that idea in a drawing. Sometimes I get an idea from something I see around me that leads me to see how it can be incorporated in jewelry. Seeing exhibits, photos or drawings of other’s works also inspires me.

6. Technical process...

Grasslands
I usually draw what I plan to make and then decide on the purpose and size. Sometimes I make up a paper model, then decide on specific metal or material to use. If I have a stone I want to make into jewelry, my design usually centers on that stone and the inspiration that I get from that stone—how I picture it in my mind. The selected material then determines how it will be treated—for example, will the metal need to be reinforced with an edging (frame) to give it strength as well as a “finished” look.

7. My artistic style & how it’s changed...

I see my style as conservative/contemporary, wearable by most women, both working and non-working. I’m guided by what I see as commercially popular but work at not duplicating those ideas. I want it to be obvious that “this is a hand-crafted piece of wearable art.”

8. Plans for future...

For the remainder of 2014; [Renwick] JRA Day show on Dec. 6. I also make jewelry that is sold at ViVian’s, a craft shop in Charlottesville, Va., as well as a potential Holiday Show at Glen Echo (that is not certain, although I’ve been in the show the last few years).

9. To contact me—by e-mail: nellafischer@comcast.net or by telephone: 301-598-9417

Monday, October 6, 2014


Flow with whatever may happen and let your mind be free. Stay centered by whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. ~ Zhuangzi

Jan Mandel drapes jewelry like she used to drape clothing. “I build it around the body form in 360 degree format.  I do not cast, or work flat. I build/drape my materials on mannequin forms that I have collected over time in order to visualize the flow and movement of the material.  This flow of metal as it surrounds the body is key to my process, with the negative space that results equally as important!   It is the negative voids that are created in the structures that allow my work to breathe and flow.

With a degree in Clothing Design from Moore College of Art and Design in Philadelphia, Jan started as draper/pattern maker working in NYC/Philadelphia and the West Coast. This parlayed into a career in Interior Design, starting in restoration and conversion of historic spaces. Her draping skills served well in one-of-a-kind hand-draped window treatments. The opportunity to do a couple of Symphony Design Houses in both Baltimore and Washington DC altered her world. If that wasn’t enough, she began taking classes at Montgomery College in Metals.

Classes with Komelia Okim, Jan Maddox and Dorothea Stover honed her metals techniques and she was hooked. Another life altering experience! “The manipulation of metals became a passion.” Wanting even more exposure, Jan entered the University of Washington, Seattle to get a Masters in Metals, studying with Mary Lee Hu and John Marshall. Upon completion of her degree in 1999 her career took off. International and national exhibitions followed; the chance to document and research the Boucheron Jewelry archive in Paris led to an invitation to exhibit tiaras at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Thus was born her Transformational Jewelry line.

Most of the jewelry that I create can function, as both sculptural and wearable objects. These pieces derive their identity from process, rather than narrative.  Asymmetric, gold wire structures that defy their fragile appearance, evoke mass where there is none, relying on the viewers eye to visualize the unseen.  I work with 18K golds of varying colors, large freshwater pearls and unusual, irregular shaped stones. The work can be
intensely tight (fretworks)...or extremely minimalistic. It is the play of light and the premeditated negative space within these fretworks that engage the wearer and allow the stones to float on the body. Due to their sculptural aesthetic when not worn, these jewels can be displayed on a wall or pedestal.” Every piece is one-of-a-kind.


Jan’s work is included in The Renwick Gallery of the Smithsonian American Art Museum. She first exhibited with Pleiades as a guest in 2001 and 2003, becoming a member in 2004. If you would like to see more or to contact Jan to purchase a piece please check her website.

Thursday, October 2, 2014

It's easy to be enamored of the color but there is more to it than that!


I found I could say things with color and shapes that
I couldn't say any other way - things I had no words for.
 ~ Georgia O'Keeffe

Susana Garten sometimes can’t get her pieces to do what she wants. She was working on a wall piece with 2” squares of 22/24 gauge copper, she was hammering away, but it just wouldn’t cooperate, so she took it out to her driveway and ran over it a few times. Perfect!

While Sue was at MC working on her degree in Art, she took Jan Maddox’s 2-D/3-D Survey of Crafts class. At first she couldn’t decide between weaving and enamel, but the way color and texture could be worked in the enamel “sealed the deal” and “so much for the degree!” In 1997 Sue was invited to be a guest artist in the Pleiades Art Jewelry show, shortly thereafter she joined as a member.

Initially she created cloisonné jewelry, but soon moved onto smaller vessels, hammering out bowl forms (now she uses spun forms and shaping) in copper and switched to “basse-taille[1], firescale[2]  and precious foil enamel techniques as a means of expression.”[3] Sue also does a fair amount of etching (resist, asphalt, contact paper – ferric acid – sometimes adding cloisonné wire – sometimes stencils – cleaning, washing – lay on enamel – fire over and over again). Still you never really know exactly what the end result will be or even exactly when the end will be. Occasionally a piece she thinks will be marvelous turns out horrible, so she puts it away and returns to it later. One piece she came back to, she stepped on a bit and it turned out to be terrific.

Sue used to sketch out ideas, but now finds she only does that when an idea gets stuck in her head and needs a push to realize. Typically, she prefers to play with the materials or works with 3D models to see what will spark. With her studio housed in the Sandy Spring Museum she finds herself taking inspiration from the pieces surrounding her. A 19th Century scissors case or lace collar present a host of possibilities in color, texture or flow. Then the experimentation begins. It’s not so simple that you just apply the enamel to the surface, fire and you’re done, but takes sample after sample, firing after firing to get the effect that is the vision in Sue’s head.

Sue finds that she constantly learns something from teaching enamel workshops and classes. "Someone always asks a question I had never thought of!" Since she doesn't like making frames, her wall pieces tend to be more abstract. "Some idea, some inspiration that leads to the design. My style is all over the place. I like to experiment. Having started doing cloisonne my work has gotten freer, more playing around and the more playing around the more I want to do." Sue takes her inspiration from nature, fiber, everyday occurrences, random internal thoughts and texture, color and pattern play important roles in every piece.

While she loves making the larger vessels and wall pieces, reality may cause a return to jewelry, holding the weight of an 18 gauge bowl while putting the enamel on is taking its toll. For now, however, she’s busy creating a collection of new work to present both at the Pleiades Show, but also for an exhibit of her work at Glenview Mansion opening October 5 of 16-24 pieces, a "Teacher's Pet" show with former students at the Pearson Legacy Gallery in Deer Isle Maine October 8-26 and for the Washington Guild of Goldsmiths show in November.

If you would like to see more or to contact Sue to purchase a piece please check her website.


[1]A low-relief pattern in metal, usually silver or gold, by engraving or chasing. The entire pattern is created in such a way that its highest point is lower than the surrounding metal. A translucent enamel is then applied to the metal, allowing light to reflect from the relief and creating an artistic effect. It was used in the late Middle Ages, and then again in the 17th century. The Art of Fine Enameling
[2] The use of the oxide buildup on a metal. Some pieces are completely done through firescale manipulation (by painting with a holding agent, sifting transparent enamels, and building up the resulting firescale lines), and some pieces are enhanced by the additive use of firescale (could be from a flaked-off piece that is reattached). The Art of Fine Enameling
[3] http://susanagarten.com/home.html

Friday, September 26, 2014

Not just a doodle...



Jan Maddox always intended to teach art, but while an arts major at University of Nebraska she needed an extra class and there was this credit jewelry class offered at night. Although a very primitive class, they enameled over a Bunsen burner, here was a whole new world of tools, vocabulary and materials. Her first piece was a cabochon setting in a ring. The instructor was a talented watchmaker trained at Elgin National Watch Company. Years later Jan taught the course.

Quarter Circle Pin with Damascene Inlay from The Art of Jewelry Making by Alan Revere

Graduate school took her to Indiana University where she had the opportunity to study under Alma Eikerman who had established an exceptional metals program which trained many of the country’s top jewelry teachers and jewelers.  On her own, Jan found that ceramics was too demanding in space and equipment and painting wasn’t quite doing it for her, but jewelry she could do in her kitchen (she used to make copper ashtrays on her stove). With a primitive set of tools she created a line of jewelry that “didn’t look like it came out of a jewelry store”. 

1967 found Jan teaching part time at Montgomery College where she set up the Art Appreciation courses and in 1971 upon completion of the Arts building in Rockville she went full time, teaching art appreciation, two and three-dimensional design, jewelry and general crafts over the next 25 years. All the time creating her own well received body of work.

In 1984 she joined Joke Van Ommen in opening Vo Galerie in DC, now Jewelers' Werk Galerie. This small space focused on contemporary jewelry, primarily from Europe, but also featured many American jewelers. Although only there for a short time, Jan learned about retail, what suits different people and as a result feels her pieces are only complete when she sells them and they become “someone else’s treasures.”

The challenge of the design enthralls her. “I like to start with something in hand, 2 squares and a bunch of circles of different sizes lead to sketches of different ways to arrange them.How big are the elements, what patterns are where? I follow the sketches very closely, but sometimes shit happens and you have to make adjustments.” The next challenge is often figuring out how to make it, what techniques to use to create the texture and attach the elements. Fabric provides a lot of inspiration for the textures of her metals.

Jan served on the board at Rockville Arts Place (now VisArts) and now at Waverly Gallery in Bethesda. She joined Pleiades in 1989 when they were still exhibiting in Garrett Park Town Hall. Jan describes her work as classical – intellectual, romantic – emotional.

If you would like to see more or contact Jan to purchase a piece check her facebook page, Jan Maddox Jewelry or contact her by email at janmaddox0000@yahoo.com. Jan will also be participating in Metalworks 2014 the Washington Guild of Goldsmiths show in November, JRA Day on December 6. She is also participating in a "Teacher's Pet" show with two of her former students at the Pearson Legacy Gallery in Deer Isle Maine October 8-26 and showing 71 pieces as a guest artist at the Iona Center for Creative Aging until October 10th.