It's easy to be enamored of the color but there is more to it than that!

I found I could say things with color and shapes that

I couldn't say any other way - things I had no words for.

 ~ Georgia O'Keeffe

Susana Garten sometimes can’t get her pieces to do what she wants. She was working on a wall piece with 2” squares of 22/24 gauge copper, she was hammering away, but it just wouldn’t cooperate, so she took it out to her driveway and ran over it a few times. Perfect!

While Sue was at MC working on her degree in Art, she took Jan Maddox’s 2-D/3-D Survey of Crafts class. At first she couldn’t decide between weaving and enamel, but the way color and texture could be worked in the enamel “sealed the deal” and “so much for the degree!” In 1997 Sue was invited to be a guest artist in the Pleiades Art Jewelry show, shortly thereafter she joined as a member.

Initially she created cloisonné jewelry, but soon moved onto smaller vessels, hammering out bowl forms (now she uses spun forms and shaping) in copper and switched to “basse-taille[1], firescale[2]  and precious foil enamel techniques as a means of expression.”[3] Sue also does a fair amount of etching (resist, asphalt, contact paper – ferric acid – sometimes adding cloisonné wire – sometimes stencils – cleaning, washing – lay on enamel – fire over and over again). Still you never really know exactly what the end result will be or even exactly when the end will be. Occasionally a piece she thinks will be marvelous turns out horrible, so she puts it away and returns to it later. One piece she came back to, she stepped on a bit and it turned out to be terrific.

Sue used to sketch out ideas, but now finds she only does that when an idea gets stuck in her head and needs a push to realize. Typically, she prefers to play with the materials or works with 3D models to see what will spark. With her studio housed in the Sandy Spring Museum she finds herself taking inspiration from the pieces surrounding her. A 19th Century scissors case or lace collar present a host of possibilities in color, texture or flow. Then the experimentation begins. It’s not so simple that you just apply the enamel to the surface, fire and you’re done, but takes sample after sample, firing after firing to get the effect that is the vision in Sue’s head.

Sue finds that she constantly learns something from teaching enamel workshops and classes. "Someone always asks a question I had never thought of!" Since she doesn't like making frames, her wall pieces tend to be more abstract. "Some idea, some inspiration that leads to the design. My style is all over the place. I like to experiment. Having started doing cloisonne my work has gotten freer, more playing around and the more playing around the more I want to do." Sue takes her inspiration from nature, fiber, everyday occurrences, random internal thoughts and texture, color and pattern play important roles in every piece.

While she loves making the larger vessels and wall pieces, reality may cause a return to jewelry, holding the weight of an 18 gauge bowl while putting the enamel on is taking its toll. For now, however, she’s busy creating a collection of new work to present both at the Pleiades Show, but also for an exhibit of her work at Glenview Mansion opening October 5 of 16-24 pieces, a "Teacher's Pet" show with former students at the Pearson Legacy Gallery in Deer Isle Maine October 8-26 and for the Washington Guild of Goldsmiths show in November.

If you would like to see more or to contact Sue to purchase a piece please check her website.

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[1]A low-relief pattern in metal, usually silver or gold, by engraving or chasing. The entire pattern is created in such a way that its highest point is lower than the surrounding metal. A translucent enamel is then applied to the metal, allowing light to reflect from the relief and creating an artistic effect. It was used in the late Middle Ages, and then again in the 17th century. The Art of Fine Enameling

[2] The use of the oxide buildup on a metal. Some pieces are completely done through firescale manipulation (by painting with a holding agent, sifting transparent enamels, and building up the resulting firescale lines), and some pieces are enhanced by the additive use of firescale (could be from a flaked-off piece that is reattached). The Art of Fine Enameling

[3] http://susanagarten.com/home.html

"Email" means more than you think!

"The word enamel comes [from] the High German word 'smelzan' later becoming 'esmail' in Old French. Hence the current usage of 'smalto' in Italian, 'email' in French and German and 'enamel' in English.

It is thus defined as a vitreous, glass like coating fused on to a metallic base. In history, enamels were initially applied on firstly gold, then silver, copper, bronze and more latterly on iron and steel. The term is also used for the application of decorative fusible glass applied to glass objects."[i]

"Enameling is a good fit for me because I am strongly influenced by accidental occurrences and I like to experiment. The kiln offers many accidental occurrences, but I have learned in art as in life you have to accept risk and failure in order to move ahead. Sometimes we have to play the game of life with sweaty palms!" Pat Perito

While working as an R.N. Pat became interested in metalsmithing after collecting several strands of African trading beads and other beads from all over the world.

Chihuly inspired brooch

Two hundred necklaces and three years of metal classes at Montgomery College, she began working with enamels in 1980.

Ten years later she set up a studio in her home and continues to take enamel workshops all over the U.S. Pat regularly exhibits with the Washington Guild of Goldsmiths.

Pat’s love of color initially attracted her to enameling. She is  fascinated by the results of accidents that can happen as part of the process. “Hopefully you remember what you did and kept notes. Stretch yourself, you’ll learn something each time.”

Tabletop Art

One year Pat dropped her annual tabletop piece when taking it out of the kiln, she popped it back in and it is now one of her favorite pieces. However that has not become a mainstay technique to try to recreate the result! “It’s the mistakes that give you a whole new road to travel.”

Inspiration is found in parts of things -- a corner of a Monet garden, nachos, butterfly wings, the view from

Nachos inspired necklace
(her son ate one model)

her studio into the yard, just a small piece not the whole thing -- that lend themselves to a series of pieces. “I’m always looking. Something that’s fascinated me for years, after a storm, someone pulls out of the driveway leaving a puddle of water with a bit of oil floating on it, a flat rainbow.” Pat is about to start sketches for a series of pieces inspired by Hubble Telescope images a friend sent to her.

Wall Art

Although she takes inspiration from abstract and impressionist artists Pat describes her work as contemporary not traditional. She likes “to take cloisonné and make it more current, see where I can push it.”

One of the original seven “sisters” of Pleiades, Pat will be on sabbatical in 2014. Is she sad to miss this year’s 29^th Anniversary? “Yes, but I need to have knee surgery!” However, she fully expects to return for the 30^th!

2014 Jewelry

[i] http://www.iom3.org/content/history-of-enamel

Hey, kids, my Uncle's got a barn....

"...let's put on a Show!"

Maybe not in a barn, but in 1985 a group of women jewelers were talking and that was essentially the suggestion. “I originally met Marie Susinno at Montgomery College, back in 1981. Later she, Pat Perito and I took lessons from Deborah Dubois, as did most of the other founders at one time or another. At a certain point, everyone who makes jewelry on a regular basis, is faced with a growing inventory, so we decided to try to sell it. . . even though that's not what motivated us [to make jewelry] in the first place,” says Judy Sugar.

“Since I live in Garrett Park, I knew that our town hall, a charming space (formerly a small church) was available for rentals. So I suggested that a small group of us rent it for a show. There were seven of us: Haesun Chung, Deborah Dubois, Joan Levy, Desi Midgett, Pat Perito, Judy Sugar, and Marie Susinno. A woman I worked with suggested the name: Pleiades, the Seven Sisters. It was fairly successful for a first-time effort. . . and so, we continued, growing and expanding into a larger space.”

Judy has always admired beautiful jewelry. The idea that she could make it herself, plus the opportunity to learn under Komelia Okim’s direction in a first-class program at Montgomery College was too thrilling to pass up and a new path was taken. “I was fascinated by ancient-looking jewelry and tried to made jewelry that looked like it came from a different age. Then I became interested in unusual stones, and made simple jewelry that featured the stones. Now my work takes me to simpler forms, without stones, often oxidized a dark color.”

When finding it difficult to come up with new ideas, Judy begins by playing with the metals to see where it leads. Most begins life as sheet metal, wire or tubing (usually sterling, occasionally gold). An accidental result can send her off in a completely different direction and one piece can lead to another. The materials alone often prove inspirational, a beautiful stone, an interesting texture or shape also play a role. “It’s always good to challenge yourself to make something new—try new techniques—keep it interesting.”

If you'd like to purchase or commission jewelry from Judy, please contact her at jbs20896@aol.com

Please join us November 15-16, 11am-5pm at the Women's Club of Bethesda, 5500 Sonoma Road, Bethesda MD (Just south of the beltway on the corner of Old Georgetown and Sonoma Roads). Admission is free.

Save the Date!

"Many a night I saw the Pleiads. Rising through the mellow shade, glitter like a swarm of fireflies tangled in a silver braid." - From Locksley Hall by Alfred Lord Tennyson

Pleiades is made up of a core group of women jewelry/metals artists and a changing roster of guest artists for each year's November show.

Pleiades was formed in 1985 by 7 local women jewelry artists looking for a way to showcase their art and gain recognition. The initial group; Haesun Chung (Meon), Deborah Dubois, Joan Levy, Desiree Midgett, Pat Perito, Judy Sugar and Marie Susinno produced their first show in the Garrett Park Town Hall. Over time the show grew and evolved, eventually moving to the Women’s Club of Bethesda on Old Georgetown Road.

No longer just seven sisters as implied by its constellation namesake, Pleiades has grown to 19 women, primarily all local artists, who create quality hand-crafted jewelry and metalwork. A juried student booth was added to give new student jewelers a mentored opportunity to participate in a retail show. Over time more than 80 artists have participated in Pleiades — all women. The work has included one-of-a-kind silver and gold pieces; with gemstones, dichroic glass, beads, paper and enamels, along with silver flatware, vessels and table sculpture.

The women of Pleiades are represented in numerous private collections and museums, including the Renwick Museum of Contemporary Art and Craft in Washington, D.C.  2014 marks the 29th Anniversary of that first show. Two of the original members, Pat Perito and Judy Sugar, will be joined by members; Cindy Calahan, Sue Garten, Jan Maddox, Jan Mandel, Odaybea Morrow, Carol Oshinsky and guests; Jessica Beels, Rachel Carren, Nella Fischer, Gayle Friedman, Courtney Gillen, Lori Gottlieb, Stacey Krantz, EunJu Lee, Sue Sachs and Sandra Zacharia. Two students, Robin Bass and Denisa Piatti-Funfkirchen will round out this year's collection of talented women. On sabbatical this year are members; Pamela Hill-Byrne, Betty Helen Longhi and Mary Ellen Trozzo.

Please join us November 15-16, 11am-5pm at the Women's Club of Bethesda, 5500 Sonoma Road, Bethesda MD (Just south of the beltway on the corner of Old Georgetown and Sonoma Roads). Admission is free.